Masters Degrees (The Centre for Sustainability Transitions (CST))

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Browsing Masters Degrees (The Centre for Sustainability Transitions (CST)) by browse.metadata.advisor "Jhetam, Tasneem"

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    An exploration into why South Africa does not grow organic cotton
    (2023-12) May, Jacqueline; Selomane, Odirilwe; Jhetam, Tasneem; Stellenbosch University. Faculty of Economic and Management Sciences. Centre for Sustainability Transition.
    ENGLISH SUMMARY: Cotton is an important fibre in the textile industry, an industry that has a massive environmental impact, much of which is accounted for by the production process. Although polyester is currently the most used fibre in the textile industry, cotton is still the most used natural fibre. Cotton production contributes significantly to the industry’s environmental impact through land and water use. Typically, it is farmed in high-input conventional farming using chemicals and industrial practices that deprive large swathes of land of their nutrients and accelerate the collapse of biodiversity. About 1 500 farmers (both small and large) grow cotton in South Africa. Most of the cotton is produced by about 120 large-scale commercial farmers. None of the cotton grown in the country is organically farmed. This study partially fills the gap in research about perceptions of cotton growing and use in South Africa. The objectives of this research are to provide an overview of cotton farming in South Africa; to explore the perceptions of cotton supply chain actors on their preferences and attitudes towards organic versus Bt cotton; and provide a set of recommendations to the cotton industry for transition towards sustainable practices. A qualitative research methodology was used that consisted of 9 key informant interviews (after an exploratory survey was conducted). As a preparation, a literature review informed a framework for the primary research, guiding the questions for the survey and informant interviews. Overall, the findings of this research show that the arguments for and against growing organic cotton are binary, and the conclusion is not clear cut in terms of what whether organic cotton is better for the environment than the genetically modified cotton that is grown in South Africa. From a business perspective, it emerged that while business is grappling with its contribution to the sustainability agenda, it has the influence and the financial leeway to facilitate and support a transition, yet it is not necessarily doing this to its maximum capacity. A key constraint for business is the pricing mechanism. Adjusting its ‘buy low, sell high’ model, could support a transition to organic. For retailers, buying organic cotton is not cost effective as their businesses are stuck in a “buy low, sell high” model. Currently farmers have no incentive for sustainability transitions. For farmers to transition, business models will need to change so they get the value from farming sustainably. The research also shows that interest in stewardship and care for the planet is not just scholarly - it has wide appeal. The research can contribute to policymaking and to corporate retail strategy. It is also useful for all points of the supply chain to understand that there is a demand for, and interest in, organic. Instead, what emerges from the research is that information and education about genetically modified organisms (GMOs) need to be made more widely available, and that regular and official studies on GMO’s environmental impact should be conducted and made publicly available so that both the industry and the public have a full understanding of the impact of Bt cotton. Some practical recommendations emerging from this research include the need for further investment and commitment to developing organic cotton trials in order to understand the long-term benefits of growing organic cotton.